I've returned to bowling after a few years absence. My average had reached 189 and I understand that having the right equipment today is more important than ever. Can you suggest a ball or two for the extreme wet and dry conditions, and also for a medium condition?
With the variety of lane surfaces and oil patterns found in today's bowling centers, having the proper equipment is very important. There are several factors to ponder before choosing an arsenal that best complements your game. Ball speed, number of revolutions, and axis tilt should be examined before purchasing any equipment. Your pro shop can discuss these variables with you.
As for my suggestions, there are a couple of balls that I consider a must for successful scoring. In the medium lane condition range, I suggest the Ebonite Black Turbo. The Turbo is a two-piece, non-reactive urethane ball. It is probably the most versatile ball on the market and can handle a variety of lane conditions.
For extremely dry lanes, I recommend either the Blue Pearl Hammer or the Blue Turbo. Both of these have low-surface-friction characteristics and should provide good skid on dry lanes.
When the lanes become extremely oily, there are several high performance reactive balls to choose from. If you prefer to play a wide, sweeping hook, I would recommend a cover-heavy ball such as the Ninja Fury, Dick Weber Legacy Reactive, Champion Dragon, or Brunswick Green Quantum. These balls will produce wide track flare and back-end reaction.
For a more direct line with strong roll, the Ebonite Nitro/R, Track Critical Mass, and the High Score Sunstorm are all possible candidates. These balls have center-heavy cores that produce mild track flare and strong roll. I would also suggest having a reactive ball with a polished surface to create a long skid with strong back-end reaction.
It is important to remember that every bowler is different and what works for one may not work for another. Factors such as surface texture and drill patterns will significantly alter ball reaction for different individuals. I suggest consulting your favorite pro shop for more information.
* * * *
Do you tuck your baby finger after you insert your other fingers into the ball? Has it served any purpose?
Tucking the pinky finger into the palm is a very popular grip technique used by the majority of power players. This technique raises the ball from the palm of the hand and transfers the weight to the base of the index finger joint. Utilizing this grip will allow most bowlers to generate a little more lift and rotation on the ball, which creates more back-end hook.
I sometimes use this grip when the lanes are oily or when I'm projecting the ball further to the right than normal.
* * * *
Many people have said that I should change from a full roller to a 3/4 roll. What do they mean by that? Why are they saying I should change?
What these people are suggesting is a change in your ball track. The track of your ball is determined by the rotation and tilt of your hand at the release point. The ball track is the only part of the ball that contacts the lane and can be determined by the pre-dominant scratch pattern around the circumference of the ball.
Although there are an infinite number of ball tracks, they tend to fall in one of four categories: full roller, high 3/4, low 3/4, and spinner.
Your full roller track is created by a slight clockwise rotation of the hand, from a closed position, during release. This type of grip was prevalent during the shellac and lacquer lane finish days. It allowed the bowler to place the ball in the "track" of the lane and follow it to the pocket without over-hooking. On today's hard lane finishes, the full roller ball track does not create enough punch at the back-end to consistently carry strikes.
In order to change your track to a 3/4 roll, you must maintain a square or open hand position and rotate the hand counterclockwise during the release. Be advised, however, that this can be a difficult transition and may require many practice games. I suggest you seek the help of a qualified instructor in your area before attempting such a change.
* * * *
I drift to the left during my first two steps then move to the right during my last three steps. How will this affect my game? Must I fix it?
A very important aspect of the relationship between the body and arm swing is the ability for the hips to "bump" slightly left in order to clear a path for an inside-out swing. Many people will drift slightly left during the first two steps to allow this to happen. However, the majority will then walk straight from this point.
Without seeing you bowl, it would be hard to determine if moving to the right is hurting your game. Bob Pendergraft, a professional instructor at Bowl America Manassas, is a genius when it comes to analyzing footwork. I suggest you contact him as soon as possible.