THE STRIKE ZONE / Scott Bailey

September 1998

Keys to ball track reading


Learning to read your ball track can be very useful in adjusting to various lane conditions. It is an important part of your bowling education.

Your ball track is the definitive ring of oil around your ball after you roll a shot. The best way to accurately locate this oil ring is to completely clean your ball, then roll one shot. The oil ring should be very noticeable. If you mainly bowl on wood lanes, you will also notice a series of small scratches around the ball in its "track area." Using this information will give you instant feedback on the strength and effectiveness of your current release.

Please note that due to the large track flare patterns associated with today’s balls, you may see several oil rings on your ball. The important ring is the one that is closest to your thumb and farthest from your finger holes.

There are several types of ball tracks, each of which creates certain motion potentials regardless of the type of ball you use. The most common of these tracks are the spinner track, ¾ track, and full roller. Each one of these ball tracks produces certain ball reaction characteristics, and we will discuss these below.


The Spinner Track

The spinner track was in its heyday 30 to 50 years ago when you wanted to create more hooking action on dry lanes or more entry angle for pin carry. When the lane surfaces changed in the late 60s and early 70s, the spinner track lost some of its usefulness. It simply would not get into a forward roll early enough to create strong hitting power.

However, with the advent of today’s high-friction bowling balls, the spinner track is making a mild comeback. Most of the better bowlers will change to this type of release when the lanes break down and they need to create more length and back-end hooking action.

You can recognize a spinner track very easily. If the oil ring on your ball is more than three inches from the fingers and thumb hole, you are throwing a spinner.

If this is your normal release, I would guess you bowl best on medium-to-drier lanes and that heavily oiled lane conditions give you fits. This is because spinner tracks create a long-sliding action. When this is combined with the heavy oil, the ball simply slides too far and does not have time to hook on the back end.

Bowlers with this type of track should stick with more aggressive bowling balls with low RG, low torque core designs. Balls like the Zone series, the Timberwolf series, the Sky Bolt, the Boss series, etc., should work very well for these bowlers. They should also stick with early-rolling, strong-flaring drilling layouts.


The ¾ Track

The ¾ track is by far the most common type in bowling today. This track type can be subdivided into two categories, the low ¾ track and the high ¾ track.

The important ring is the one that is closest to your thumb and farthest from your finger holes.

The low ¾ track is similar to a spinner. With this track, the oil ring will fall roughly two inches from the fingers and thumb hole. It is also similar to a spinner in its reaction characteristic, although it will roll slightly earlier on the lane.

This type of track is very common today and works well with today’s aggressive reactive coverstocks. It also works well with a variety of ball designs and lane conditions, how well being determined by other factors such as ball speed and leverage.

If you have this type of track and have a slower ball speed or strong leverage, you should stick with medium-to-high RG core designs and medium-aggressive cover- stock bowling balls. If your ball speed is high with less leverage, then move towards the more aggressive ball models described above for the spinner track.

The high ¾ track was very successful in the plastic and urethane days and is still useful today. The strongest reaction characteristic associated with this track type is an earlier roll and break point due to the larger track circumference. This type of track works well on medium-to-heavier oil patterns and is fairly versatile, based once again on ball speed and leverage.

If you have slower ball speed and strong leverage, you should stick with high RG, low flare core designs and layouts coupled with milder coverstocks. Balls like the Columbia Shadow/C, the Storm Red Hot Flame, the Brunswick Blitz, and the Ebonite Stinger Pearl will work well for you on most "house" lane conditions.

If your ball speed is higher and you have less revolutions, you may be able to use slightly stronger models such as the Columbia Tour Boss Pearl, the Ebonite Puma, the Triton Elite Pearl, or the Storm Bolt Pearl. These models should give you sufficient length and more pop on the back end.


The Full Roller

As the name implies, the full roller track creates very little sliding action, achieving a forward roll very early on the lane. This track type was popular on the older, lacquer lane surfaces due to its small hook and predictability. This track is recognized by the oil line running between the fingers and thumb hole.

The full roller’s biggest problem is its lack of hitting power based on the shallower entry angle caused by the early break point. This type of roll still works well, however, on severe wet/dry lane conditions when the other track types are overreacting the break point. I have even seen Walter Ray Williams Jr. use this type of release on TV when the lane conditions warrant it.

Ball types for full rollers can differ tremendously based on other external factors, but I have found that higher RG/higher torque balls work best for creating more length and a strong entry angle, which increases the full roller’s pin carry percentage. The most versatile drilling layout seems to be a "label" drill with a 7:30 pin position.

It is important to remember that there are several other factors to consider when determining the proper hand release and ball track for any given situation. Understanding how to change your track to match a lane condition is a complex and demanding art, but when achieved can produce great results.

If you are unhappy with your current release and ball reaction, I suggest you seek a qualified area instructor to help you make the change. Remember, there is usually a big difference between "feel and real." It never hurts to have a second set of eyes.

Also, your ball track is of vital importance to the layout and drilling of your equipment. Should you decide to purchase a new ball, it is always a good idea to take one of your current balls with you to the pro shop. This will provide your ball driller with valuable information he or she needs to provide you with the best service and give you the best value for your money.


Scott Bailey (xzone@erols.com) operates The Strike Zone Professional Bowling Store in Vienna.