Alcohol, Windex™, acetone, dishwashing soap, mineral spirits, turpentine, Super Clean™, and ammonia. This is just a partial list of products that local area bowlers use to clean their bowling balls. Almost every day I am asked what is the best way to clean and rejuvenate a reactive urethane ball, and every day I hear of a new product that supposedly works better than any that have come before it.

The truth is, there is no "best" product on the market to clean your reactive ball. In fact, the cleaners that seem to produce the quickest results are probably damaging the ball's surface and hurting its performance.

Let's go back to the beginning. The traditional urethane balls of the 1980s and early 1990s were a combination of polyol resins and isocyanates. The molecular structure of the hardened urethane was very dense and virtually indestructible.

This is not the case with today's reactive urethane balls. The molecular structure of reactive urethane is less dense and much more brittle than conventional urethane. The lower density is caused by addition of plasticisor compounds that reduce the overall mass of urethane in the ball. The brittleness is caused by the use of harder isocyanates.

This combination causes a reactive coverstock's pore structure to be larger and weaker than that of a conventional urethane.

The much-harder reactive urethane structure creates more length than a conventional urethane. The large pores in the reactive surface allow oil to be absorbed into the surface, and the plasticisor compound migrates to the ball's surface, leaving a microscopic layer of glue-like "resin" on the ball's exterior. This is why reactive urethane balls skid longer and hook harder than conventional urethane balls.

The problem is, along with this improved performance, a necessary reduction in durability takes place. This is precisely why reactive urethane balls require higher maintenance than their conventional counterparts.

Back to the question at hand: What is the best way for you to maintain your reactive ball?

There is no "best" product on the market
to clean your reactive ball.

First, I would like to dispel a few myths. According to the manufacturer representatives I spoke with, you should never, ever, heat your ball in any way. Not only are you weakening the already fragile urethane, but the liquid that comes to the surface contains both oil and plasticisor resins. By heating the ball, you are reducing the amount of "resin" in the ball, thus reducing its life span.

Also, you should not use any strong solvents or hydrocarbons to clean your ball. While they clean the surface quickly and easily, these types of materials will degrade the urethane matrix and increase the possibility of cracking or splitting. Even rubbing alcohol will slightly degrade the reactive urethane over time.

The engineers and chemists that I spoke with recommend using one of the non-solvent based cleaners certified by the American Bowling Congress. Most of these products will have the certification on the package and are designed specifically for use on reactive coverstocks. Although they will require more elbow grease to clean properly, they will not damage the surface or reaction of your new ball.

For sanded balls, I recommend applying the cleaner with a green kitchen scour pad and scrubbing vigorously in a circular motion. This will deep clean the urethane pores and return the surface to an aggressive, sanded texture.

For polished balls, simply apply the cleaner with a soft, clean towel and rub off the dirt and oil build-up. For hard-to-clean areas, hold a wet towel or sponge on the ball for several minutes prior to cleaning. To restore the polish, take your ball to your pro shop operator or use the polishing machine at the bowling center.

Speaking of polishing machines, I'm often asked if they damage the balls. The answer is no. However, they will apply a soft wax to the ball surface that fills the urethane pores. This will inhibit the "resin" migration to the ball surface, thus reducing back-end hook.

If you want less hooking action, these polishing machines work very well. If you want more length without sacrificing back-end hook, see your pro shop professional. He or she can polish your ball with non-wax products that will not fill the urethane pores. I prefer to use Ebonite RCS, 3M Finesse, or Ultimate Plus.

Since we're discussing surface maintenance, we should talk about ball resurfacing. Resurfacing a bowling ball is a process that grinds off a small layer of the ball surface, removing track scratches, wax buildup, dirt, and oil. Except for regular cleaning, resurfacing your ball regularly is the best way to prolong its useful life. It restores the ball to its original finish and promotes stronger ball-to-lane contact.

A good rule of thumb is to resurface your ball every 75 to 100 games—more if you bowl on rough wood lanes, less if you bowl on synthetic lanes.

When it comes to ball surface maintenance, be sensible. Today's bowling balls are an investment, so treat them with care.

See you next month.

Scott Bailey operates The Strike Zone Professional Bowling Store in Vienna. His E-mail address is xzone@erols.com.