As a follow-up to my May article on what I call the "process" of bowling, I will go into more detail, yet not too much, on the three areas of concern. As always, these are generic hints, and more details can be obtained by consulting your local pro shop operator and/or certified instructor.
The first area of concern, the grip, should be comfortable and fit properly in relation to the composition of your hand. When holding a bowling ball, applying primary pressure with your fingers and just enough with your thumb (think of it as holding a bird in your hand without squeezing so it cannot fly away) is a method my students have used successfully.
When releasing the ball, it should clear your thumb smoothly (unless you do not put your thumb in the ball), followed by your fingers. This should be an effortless process to where you should not have to force your hand out of the ball. Hanging in the ball with either your fingers or thumb, or dropping the ball because you cannot hang on to it, indicates something is not right.
In working with people who have developed forearm problems, pain in the joints of their hands, or knots on their thumb (which are just some of the many problems caused by incorrect grips), they either did not know why it was happening or how to hold the ball. It can be a simple matter of a hole too tight or as complex as incorrect pitches or an improper span, but getting it checked by your International Bowling Pro Shop and Instructors Association (IBPSIA) pro shop professional can remedy the situation. Keep in mind that if things do not improve, it can be beneficial to get a second opinion.
The physical aspect of your game, the next step in the process, should be as smooth as possible. However, a lot of individuals have their own styles that are comfortable to them. Although comfortable, if your ball hooks too early or too late on a regular basis (lane conditions also play a part in this), most of the answer likely rests with the physical game. So many factors go into the physical part, based on people having different physical compositions and body tempo, that the number of factors are too numerous to discuss here.
To put it simply, I teach from the perspective that the physical aspect should feel as if you are flowing to the line with everything moving in harmony. You can do this while still making an aggressive shot, but it is good to avoid being rigid, tense, or tight while moving towards the foul line.
The final step in the process is how to play lanes. The number of combinations matching the right ball to the lane condition can make the number of physical factors mentioned earlier (which were too numerous to list) pale in comparison. The high-tech age is upon us, and this makes the mental aspect of how to play lanes even more important.
The surface of the ball is the most important factor when choosing which ball to use on a specific lane condition.
For example, attempting to use a shiny, pearlized ball on a lane with a lot of conditioner with not much friction at the back-end area likely will result in difficulty hitting the pocket or hitting it with enough power to carry strikes. In the same sense, using a dull, extremely gritty ball on lanes that have almost no conditioner throughout the entire length of the lane is not the best of choices, either.
Other important factors to consider are the core configuration of the ball-low Radius of Gyration (revs fastest and goes into a roll earliest), medium Radius of Gyration, and high Radius of Gyration (revs slowest and goes into roll latest)-and the pin position in relation to the grip.
If this sounds overwhelming or too much to contemplate, do not let it. Asking your IBPSIA pro shop professional questions and letting him/her know on what lane conditions you most frequently bowl can help both of you pick the right pieces of equipment.
I have seen so many people buy a new bowling ball
with the thought that it will solve their problems.
In most cases, it is not the ball but the bowler.
I listed pieces of equipment because in the high-tech age of bowling in the 90s, one bowling ball will not work all the time if you plan to bowl in a number of different bowling centers with the desire to score high and/or consistently.
When I work with an individual, I keep in the forefront of my mind that there are "no rules" in bowling, in that all bowlers are different and what is good for one person may not work with another. Additionally, when I make suggestions in the three areas of the process, I always explain why I suggested what I did so that the bowler has a good understanding of how things work. I do not want the bowler to think that I asked him to try something just for the sake of doing it. I want him to know that there was a purpose behind what I suggested.
Again, please do be overwhelmed by all of this. Stay within your abilities, and if you have found something that is comfortable and working, stick with it. If you run into trouble, seek the advice of either your IBPSIA pro shop professional and/ or a certified instructor.
The one thing I must advocate is if you run into trouble, the answer may not be in the purchase of a new bowling ball. I have seen so many people buy a new bowling ball with the thought that it will solve their problems. In most cases, it is not the ball but the bowler. The ball does not roll down the lane without external assistance. The $150-$200 spent on a new ball could be used for instruction, which likely will reveal the majority of your problems.
Until next time, take bowling one shot at a time, make the best shot you can each time, and keep thinking.